What are grubs? Grubs are the larvae of various beetle species, such as the cockchafer, the rose chafer and the June beetle. They live in the soil and can feed on the roots of grass and plants. This weakens the grass, which may turn yellow or die.

Grubs are usually cream-coloured, with a darker head and small legs. They often lie in a C-shape. Bear in mind that not every white larva is automatically a grubs. That is why checking is always the first step.

Grubs are usually cream-colored, have a darker head, and small legs. They often lie in a C-shape. Note that not every white larva is automatically a grub. Therefore, checking is always the first step.

You can identify grubs with two signals: what you see in the soil and what the lawn shows above ground.

• In the soil, you often see a cream-colored larva with a dark head and legs, usually in a C-shape.
• Above ground, you often see yellow to brown patches, bare spots with ragged edges, and grass that comes loose with a light tug. Sometimes you also see more birds or pets digging in the same spots.

Identifying grubs is important, otherwise you'll be treating based on guesswork. That's precisely how many people lose weeks with an approach that doesn't fit.

Checking if grubs are the cause

This check makes the difference between knowing for sure and guessing. Grubs are rarely uniformly dense everywhere, so check multiple spots.

1. Choose three to five spots at the transition from healthy to damaged grass.
2. At each spot, dig out a sod piece of about twenty by twenty centimeters and five to ten centimeters deep.
3. Fold the sod back and inspect the topsoil layer.
4. Count how many larvae you find and note it for each spot.
5. Check the roots. If the grass comes loose remarkably easily and you see few root remnants, that is consistent with feeding damage.

A single larva is not immediately a disaster. If you find multiple larvae at several spots, intervention is logical.

You often first notice grubs in grass as dull patches that dry out more quickly than the rest. Bald patches then begin to appear. Where there are grubs in the grass, you can sometimes almost lift the grass as if it were loose, because the roots have been eaten away. This pattern is also typical of grubs in lawns, especially if the damage spreads in patches.

What attracts grubs? Adult beetles prefer to lay their eggs in a dense sward. A warm spell with sufficient soil moisture makes the conditions particularly favourable. That is frustrating, but it makes sense. A well-maintained lawn can be an attractive place to lay eggs.

Do chafer grubs go away on their own?

Do chafer grubs go away on their own? Sometimes a population decreases because natural enemies eat the larvae and because larvae pupate. But if you already see expanding bare spots, waiting is often the expensive route. Root damage can continue, and birds can cause additional damage by pecking and digging.

In short. When there is visible expansion, doing nothing is rarely the best choice.

When combating grubs, it's all about accessibility and conditions. Larvae are closer to the surface when actively feeding. In colder periods, they often reside deeper and are harder to reach.

Practical guidelines.

1. Only treat when the soil is sufficiently moist.
2. Avoid applying at midday in bright sunshine if you are using biological soil control.
3. Keep the soil evenly moist for a few days after treatment.
4. Check again after a few weeks to assess whether the pressure is truly decreasing.

So, when to combat grubs is not a fixed date, but a combination of activity, soil moisture, and your chosen method.

What to do about grubs

What to do about grubs. Follow this order.

1. Identify. First, check if you actually find larvae and where the damage is most severe.
2. Choose an approach. How to effectively control grubs. By selecting a method that reaches the larvae in the soil and applying it under good conditions.
3. Time recovery smartly. Only repair bare spots when you see that the damage is not spreading further. Otherwise, you're mainly feeding new grass.

Those who prefer to work biologically can opt for natural treatment for grubs as part of a soil-focused approach.

Combating grubs with garlic

Combating grubs with garlic is often mentioned as a home tip. Be critical of it. The problem is underground, at the roots. Remedies that primarily work on the surface usually do not reach larvae sufficiently. The evidence for garlic as a solution against larvae in the soil is limited. Therefore, view it as support, not as a main strategy.

If you still want to try it, do so consistently and always combine it with monitoring. If the damage continues, choose an approach that does reach the root zone.

A natural approach is not vague. It is targeted work with clear conditions.

Targeted treatment. Biological control with nematodes can work if the conditions are right. Soil moisture and timing remain key.

Keep soil and grass resilient. Don't mow too short, prevent extreme drought, and give the grass a chance to rebuild its roots.

Evaluate and adjust. Recheck after a few weeks in the same way as with the soil check. If you still find many larvae and the damage increases, repeating is more logical than hoping.

If you want to start immediately with a soil-oriented solution, then starting with nematodes against grubs fits a natural route.